Period: 12th - 21st century (1100 - 2000 AD)
Project titel: Revisible Double-Weave on the Warp-Weighted Loom
Researcher: Kathrine Larson, Archaeologist, USA
Email: kllarson(at)u.washington.edu
Year: 2008
Research Problem:
This experiment questions the background for the technological transition from the ancient vertical loom to the more modern horizontal loom in the Middle Ages. The vertical Loom is a simple construction and has been in use all over the world since the Bronze Age and determines a slow weaving technique, where each thread in the fabric is shaped by hand. However this technique was quite sufficient to supply most households with the necessary fabric, as it was not usually the custom to produce cloth for sale in the early medieval society. The horizontal loom, which is worked with a series of pedals, that divide the fabric so that the thread can be laid in quite quickly, is a much more time efficient method. With this loom a large amount of cloth can be produced for trade purposes.
In spite of this the use of the vertical loom has survived in a few places till this day. Does this mean that the vertical loom does have some advantages over the horizontal after all? Complex pattern-woven fabrics, where each thread is shaped into elaborate figures could be more suited for the vertical loom, in spite of this being a slower method.
Conclusion:
In 2008 I conducted research on the warp-weighted loom at Lejre Experimental Center, as evidence suggests that a group of 17th century bed covers from northern Gudbrandsdal, Norway, were woven on this type of loom using a technique known as double-weave.
The aim of the project was to test different methods for weighting warp threads and manipulating sheds in order to weave this technique. My previous experiments resulted in two effective weaving methods that, while useful intermediate steps, did not reflect the probable techniques used in the 17th century. The work at Lejre Research Centre was to refine the preliminary research to more closely imitate the traditional techniques. Using four separate weight systems produced good parallel, showing that the warp-weighted loom was very well suited for this type of textile. However some problems remained in achieving a clean shed between warp layers. I believe the solution will lie in further adjusting the weight amounts and the heddle-rod/shed-rod configuration. I plan to continue this research in time to come.
Reference number HAF 08/08